Last January, I flew to Cape Town, South Africa’s second-largest city. I was there to accompany a group of motorcyclists through this country that captivates us with its flora, fauna, and magnificent, unique natural landscapes. We had 18 days to explore this vast country nicknamed the “Rainbow Nation”—a name that perfectly captures the country’s mosaic of cultures and peoples. Thanks to its varied landscapes and vibrant colors, South Africa would take us on a unique road trip—follow along!
Cape Town: The Start
After a long flight and a short night’s sleep, we’ll pick up the motorcycles from the rental company, and off we go! Don’t forget that we drive on the opposite side of the road in South Africa. This “minor” detail worried me at first, but we adapt pretty quickly. We’re all riding BMWs for this adventure: 800 GS, 900 GS, and 1300 GS models, with a support vehicle bringing up the rear of the motorcycle group.
First goal: get out of the city. We then ride through the Wine Valley; the bikes are running well, the weather is nice, but it’s a bit windy. We stop in Franschhoek for the night, eat at the “Hey Joe” microbrewery (where I pick up a local beanie and a cap)—it’s a real treat.
The next day’s scenery strangely reminds me of the American West. It feels like we’re traveling around the world in just a few days—a bit like in the United States, where, from west to east, you pass through vineyards, mountains, deserts, unique landscapes, plains, forests, and oceans! We rode along the Langeberg Mountain and then crossed the Bainskloof Pass, a winding road that led us to the region’s vineyards. Our arrival in Swellendam, one of South Africa’s oldest towns, brought this day of pure motorcycling bliss to a close.
The Desert
The desert takes over as we ride through the Karoo, where baboons and ostriches are a common sight. After passing through a charming, winding canyon, we head to the pretty but rather straight R62. Very popular with motorcyclists, it offers a spectacular panorama: pure delight! This road will take us to the legendary and unmissable Ronnie’s “SEX” Shop.
A quirky and eclectic spot, it’s a bar in the middle of nowhere, where visitors’ T-shirts and “international” bras decorate the place.
The next day, we continued our journey through the desert. It was a long day that took us to the impressive Valley of Desolation. What a marvelous sight! With its rock walls sculpted by nature and its breathtaking views, we made our way to the panoramic viewpoint via a narrow, winding path. How delightful it is to explore this place on a motorcycle! We took several photos of this magical place as a memento of our visit—the perfect way to cap off our day! We parked our motorcycles for the night in Graaff-Reinet.
We continue on our way along a perfectly paved road, like a black ribbon unfurling beneath our motorcycle tires. A sign warning of leopards and a few baboons curious to see us pass by remind us that we’re in a different world! Here, of course, all the traffic signs are on the left side of the road: be careful not to miss the stop signs!
What better way to end the day than in cool, damp caves! So we head to the Cango Caves to explore this historic cave system featuring large mineral formations.
Lesotho
Next, Lesotho awaits us. The only country in the world where the entire territory lies above 1,400 meters, Lesotho truly deserves its nickname, “Kingdom of Heaven.” There, you’ll find small traditional Basotho houses (circular huts made of stone or adobe with pointed thatched roofs) nestled in postcard-perfect landscapes and high pastures tended by proud shepherds: the Africa of the mountains, in other words!
The people are very friendly, smiling, and greet us as we pass by. Along the roadsides in the villages, there are countless small shops built with sheets of corrugated metal: vendors selling fruit, SIM cards, and meat grilled on the BBQ! One traveling vendor even walks around with a stack of about thirty hard-boiled eggs, selling them to drivers stopped at traffic lights! This motorcycle trip is, well, a bit disorienting but incredibly enriching!
It’s been full of wonderful emotions, and we’ve really taken a special interest in the young schoolchildren who walk (a long way) to get to school. Proudly wearing their charming uniforms, they seem surprised but happy to see our cheerful group of motorcyclists pass by! We then ride through the bustling capital of Maseru, where we stop for the night.
The next day, on our way back to South Africa, we made a surprising stop. Mapitso, a teacher, was waiting for us at her preschool and elementary school in Lesotho. The children, eager to see us arrive, were lined up on both sides of the small road leading to the school. They had gathered there to give us a grand welcome! What memorable moments!
The children there are learning English to broaden their horizons. Riding a motorcycle here really touches the heart…
Back in South Africa
After these deeply moving moments, we crossed the border, where everything went very smoothly. Back in South Africa, we stopped for lunch at a microbrewery in Clarens on the edge of a park. The weather was beautiful and the atmosphere was very pleasant.
We hopped on our motorcycles and off we went: another favorite spot here! The road through the Golden Gate Highlands National Park offers breathtaking scenery and winds through the golden mountains. The lush green valleys provide spectacular views of the unique rock formations. The landscape reminds me once again of the American West! The narrow, winding road is sure to please the bikers in our group!
We then take a break by the Sterkfontein Reservoir, where two artisans are displaying their charming little clay animal sculptures. Several of us bought some; for me, it was a baby zebra!
We continued driving through the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park, skirting the mountains along the border with Lesotho. Road construction slowed us down, and we arrived at the hotel a little later than planned.
South African cuisine exceeded my expectations! The food is truly excellent, and the prices are more than reasonable—I’d even say affordable when you consider the value for money.
KwaZulu-Natal
We then leave the Maloti-Drakensberg Park to head deeper into the KwaZulu-Natal region. Cows and goats are everywhere along the road. Amid green hills, tropical forests, and wildlife, we’ll make our way to the Thula Thula Reserve for a unique experience. We’ll stop here for two nights. We’ll swap our motorcycles for safari jeeps!
The reserve is home to elephants, rhinos, zebras, buffalo, giraffes, hippos, cheetahs, and many other animal species… Since the animals are active in the evening and early morning, we’ll enjoy three “safaris” here, which will allow us to see most of the animals. Thanks to the unique atmosphere of the place, everyone is enchanted. Being so close to the animals in their natural habitat is truly moving. Watching the elephants interact and communicate with one another—so large yet so quiet at the same time—and seeing that warthog trot across the path obviously had the song “Hakuna Matata” stuck in my head for the rest of the day! And what can I say about the meals! Oh my! We’re feasting!
On the Way to the Indian Ocean
After crossing mountains and deserts, we’ve now reached the coast and are traveling through the southern part of South Africa. A police checkpoint stops us for a routine check of our driver’s licenses. Everything is in order, and we continue on our way
We’re now on day 14 of our 18-day journey, and it’s mainly coastal towns that will welcome us in the days ahead. With the good weather still holding up, we’re now riding right along the Indian Ocean. We take Route 2 to reach the major port city of East London.
Heading next toward Port Alfred—a lovely little coastal town with its rich colonial architecture and marina—we’re back by the ocean.
The next day, we hop on our motorcycles and ride through Alexandria and Port Elizabeth. The view is breathtaking, and the weather is perfect. We stop for lunch in the charming town of Jeffreys Bay.
When we want to park our motorcycles, it’s not uncommon to see a South African come running up to offer his “motorcycle watch” services. In fact, he unofficially manages the parking lot. As we leave, we give him a few rand to thank him for keeping our motorcycles safe, and… everyone’s happy!
We then took the famous “Garden Route,” as we made our way slowly toward Cape Town. Joel and Alexis are two days ahead of us because they’re accompanying a group of French tourists. They tell me about a discovery they made: a narrow, winding mountain road. Just the way I like them. Alright, let’s go! Here we go!
Once we arrived in Plettenberg Bay, an exceptional hotel awaited us. Here we’ll enjoy a well-deserved day of rest! On the first evening, we were served a gourmet meal at the hotel. For our free day, some of us took the opportunity to go see the monkeys at Monkeyland, while others went to eat mussels in Knysna. As for me, I spent the morning at the office, then went for a walk around town and took the chance to do a little shopping! That evening, we all went out for dinner at a restaurant-bar right on the beach.
Heading to Swellendam for one last night before returning to Cape Town
Where Two Oceans Meet
The cherry on top: Cape Agulhas! This is the southernmost tip of Africa, where the two oceans, the Indian and the Atlantic, meet. An exceptional landscape unfolds before us. How moving it is to be here! The scenery is magnificent, and we take these moments to savor the experience. Being here together, on motorcycles, is simply magical!
On the Way to Cape Town
We then head toward Cape Town via the small town of Hermanus, where we stop for dinner. Everyone takes the opportunity to pick up a few souvenirs. We wrap up this wonderful adventure by taking the spectacular Route 44 along the ocean.
On our way back to Cape Town, reality hits us one last time before we leave. Dozens of kilometers of “townships” and poverty. The stark contrast of social inequality is striking…
We have one more free day on the motorcycle, which we use to explore the peninsula and see the penguins at Boulder Beach.
Yes, yes, there are penguins in South Africa! In fact, a colony of 1,000 breeding pairs of African penguins nests on this beach.
This marks the end of an exceptional and unique motorcycle trip that will remain forever etched in our hearts. We experienced so many emotions during these 18 days in South Africa and Lesotho. We’re returning home with a wealth of unforgettable memories…
Text and photos by Zabel Bourbeau
