A country that captures the imagination!
Cleopatra, the pyramids, boats on the Nile, the Sphinx, and more—these are all images that have been etched in our memories since time immemorial! During my childhood, I read and reread the entire Asterix and Obelix series, and the one that left the biggest impression on me was, of course, Asterix and Cleopatra! Over the past few decades, I’ve had the opportunity to visit many countries, and Egypt was one that had still eluded me. The geography of this country is unique, with deserts dominating its territory. It is defined by the contrast between the vast, arid expanse of the Sahara and the narrow, fertile strip irrigated by the Nile, which has shaped the country’s history and demographics since ancient times. The Nile is the country’s true fertile backbone, with over 90% of the population concentrated along its banks.
During the long winter months, motorcycle enthusiasts are always looking for a place with a pleasant climate to ride. Some exotic destinations, such as certain islands and countries bordering the Caribbean, may be suitable, but they are often very small in terms of square kilometers. The most appealing options are geographically very far away, such as Australia, New Zealand, or certain Asian countries. The choice of Egypt is no accident, as it enjoys very mild weather year-round. The driest winter months offer very pleasant temperatures and, so to speak, zero precipitation! A country of 117 million people covering an area twice the size of France or two-thirds the size of Quebec! That’s still a lot of people!!
Gabriel-Martin, with whom I’ve had the pleasure of taking both short and long trips over the past few years, is my partner and sidekick for this adventure. Always ready, always up for anything, he’s the kind of guy everyone would love to have by their side on a trip that promises to be very “special.”
Our Goals, the Itinerary…
We left Quebec for Egypt via Dubai International Airport on February 24, and we have a “bucket list” for the next four weeks! Historic sites, of course, but first and foremost, finding one or two noteworthy motorcycle rental companies and exploring some of the country’s top destinations, such as Alexandria in the north, the capital Cairo, the shores of the Red Sea, and, among others, Hurghada, the area surrounding this seaside resort located right in the center of the country, nestled between the magnificent shores of the Red Sea and Ad Dahhar, which is part of Egypt’s Eastern Desert. It’s a rocky and mountainous region, as well as very sandy and arid. Perfect terrain for the two of us, who are crazy about adventure motorcycles and all kinds of off-road vehicles!
Cairo, the Monstrous City!
As the capital of Egypt, it is estimated to have over 23 million inhabitants, making it the most populous city in Africa and one of the largest megacities in the world. From the very first few miles, I realize I’ve just gotten us into a massive, chaotic mess—the worst I’ve ever experienced on public roads! It’s a continuous stream of cars going in EVERY direction; a three-lane road that turns into six or seven disorderly lanes, and it’s a case of “first come, first served.” I regret asking the rental company for “the newest car in the fleet”… To top it all off, there’s the cacophony of honking horns, carts pulled by donkeys and horses, pickup trucks with impossible loads, and staggering numbers of tuk-tuks zipping in every direction… Total chaos at every intersection, with children leading camels right through it all!! It’s a complete mess, and it’s only been 20 minutes since we left the terminal with my “newest car in the lot”! Every old clunker and other vehicle we brush past bears the scars of every fender bender—with bumpers hanging loose here, dented bodywork there, and chipped windshields and headlights on 99% of what’s on the road… We’ll also discover that there are waves of vehicles at every hour of the day and night. My poor rental car ☹
The Grand Tour!
Visiting the Giza Pyramids and the Sphinx was a feast for the eyes and the senses. The site features a total of nine pyramids, including the three iconic Great Pyramids of Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure. We explored every nook and cranny and even ventured inside the Great Pyramid of Khufu. It was quite a climb! Inside, to reach the burial chamber, you can’t be claustrophobic, and you also need to be fairly agile because the tunnel leading there is very narrow and low. There’s a special feeling at the site. Everything there is surreal! From the smallest to the largest pyramidal structure—even though stones have fallen from some surfaces—these pyramids are over 4,500 years old!! Even today, archaeological excavations are ongoing at the site, yielding new discoveries. Certainly one of the most famous sites in the world, the entire atmosphere of this historic place is well worth the trip to Egypt. It’s a must-see!
On the shores of the Mediterranean
After spending a few days in the megacity of Cairo and catching up on the time difference (+7 hours there), we headed north to spend a few days in the country’s second-largest city, Alexandria (population 6 million). We took the opportunity to visit the Great Library of Alexandria, which is impressive with its enormous size and its massive collection of books. On display there is an impressive selection of vintage printing presses. We made a quick stop at the site of the ancient Lighthouse of Alexandria, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, which offers breathtaking views of the sea and the coastal city.
There are no noteworthy motorcycle rental shops in the city, and the dystopian traffic—reminiscent of Cairo’s—dampens the enthusiasm of even the most seasoned riders. In any case, there’s no pleasure in riding through monstrous, chaotic traffic. We quickly head south, which takes us to the shores of the Red Sea just south of the famous Suez Canal.
Finally, we’re on two wheels!
When planning this adventure, I knew that big cities wouldn’t be the highlight of this trip. So the city of Hurghada and its surrounding region—a seaside resort known mainly among people from Eastern Europe and Europe—seemed very appealing to me. There are plenty of activities to choose from in this part of the country: motorcycle rentals, ATV tours, day trips out at sea on various types of boats ranging from basic to luxurious. It’s also worth noting that the cost of living in Egypt—including restaurants, hotels, and activities—is on average three times cheaper than in Quebec, which was another factor that drew me to this destination.
After doing some research, we found a small rental company that had two motorcycles that were just right for our needs. Two small Indian-made 150cc 4-stroke 5-speed Boxer motorcycles. With 12 hp each, we’ll have to be patient as we explore the coastal roads and desert mountains of this part of Egypt, with a top speed of 95 km/h (with a tailwind) and 70 km/h going the other way 😉. The region has thousands of wind turbines in operation because there is a prevailing wind 24 hours a day in this part of Egypt. What’s fascinating is seeing the contrast between the lush developments along the coast and, just a few kilometers further on, nothing at all—the beginning of the desert stretching westward.
We explore 70 km of coastline and observe a huge fleet of boats ranging from small rowboats to luxury yachts. Tourism is definitely the main economic driver of the area. At times, we see massive hotel complexes scattered throughout the town, along with small clusters of private homes and hotels. It feels good to finally be able to ride at a leisurely pace and have time to take in the panoramic views, as well as enjoy our two small motorcycles, which are perfectly suited to this seaside setting and very popular among the local population. Quiet roads, dotted with palm trees and various ancient sculptures, offering beautiful views of the sea: we’re truly experiencing the essence of our journey! Heading west for a few hundred kilometers, we quickly reach a desert area. As we ride through rocky mountains that will take us 300 km further to the banks of the Nile, Gabriel and I daydream about our two Moto Guzzis waiting for us at home—they’d be the perfect machines for this kind of ride, wouldn’t they!
Since we couldn’t cover long distances on these small motorcycles, we decided to leave the paved roads behind and explore the rugged mountains in the area. Beautiful, completely deserted gravel roads—a real pleasure to ride on—but with no sign of civilization. After several hours of wandering and exploring, we wisely decided to head back down, making sure to take photo breaks and grab a quick snack out in nature. Aside from major urban centers and key hubs, there are vast distances and nearly empty highways. I call them the highways to nowhere! For hundreds of kilometers, nothing but rocky mountains—not a soul in sight! This is one of the reasons why nearly 100% of tourists traveling in Egypt use public transportation—taxis, shuttles, or buses—to get from site to site and hotel to hotel. It makes getting around much easier and also keeps travelers safe, as they won’t have to brave the truly chaotic city traffic!
We also noticed while driving or riding that there are very few high-powered motorcycles on secondary or main roads, whether in big cities or in less populated areas. Over the course of the slightly more than 3,000 km we traveled on Egyptian roads, we came across no more than 10 motorcycles worth mentioning. Lots of scooters, lots of small Boxer-type motorcycles like the one we rented, but very few motorcycles and well-known brands like we have here in Quebec and North America. As with all our trips that involve riding motorcycles abroad, we always set out with a bag containing our personal gear: helmets, jackets, gloves, pants, and boots. Experienced motorcycle travelers will recognize themselves in this!
A few beautiful days of riding these little bikes in one of the most beautiful parts of the trip—we would have loved to have more, but…
The Evacuation!
We arrived in Egypt on February 25, and a few days later we heard that two countries had bombed Iran and that things had gone to hell in the Middle East… A few days after that, we learned that all the American bases and one Canadian base in neighboring countries had been attacked—things were looking bad… We had to come up with a Plan B: evacuate Egypt before it got sucked into the conflict too. To be honest, throughout our entire stay in Egypt, even though we were right in the thick of it with the conflict escalating daily, we never felt any danger, and the local people were very friendly and clearly admired Canada. However, our transit airport, Dubai, located in the United Arab Emirates, with Iran just across the Persian Gulf 200 km away, has been bombed and is closed indefinitely!!
It’s panic mode with tens of thousands of people stranded in the Middle East who must return home via a country in a war zone that’s rapidly deteriorating… As I write this in early April, the conflict is escalating. The only solution is to seek refuge as quickly as possible in a safe haven and take the first “decent” flight! I am fortunate to have very good friends in France (a 5-hour flight) who are going to take in two Canadian war refugees!
As our plane took off from Cairo, headed for France, we breathed a sigh of relief because, even though not all our travel plans came to fruition, we know that in a few hours we’ll be safe. We can’t wait for croissants, cheese, and good French wine! Thank you, friends, for taking care of us during our layover on the way to Quebec. It wasn’t planned, but it was so nice to have been able to spend some time, in the gentle spring, in your beautiful corner of France! The little meals with friends, the local market, the short walks, and the glass of white wine on the terrace were a soothing balm for this aborted, dystopian trip.
Les temples de Louxor, Abou Simbel et Assouan vont manquer à nos expériences vécues en Égypte. Nous aurons vu quand même un bout de ce pays historique, antique. Je tiens à mentionner que lors de notre dernière journée avant notre vol vers la France, nous avons visité le nouveau, énorme et grandiose Grand Musée égyptien au Caire. C’est le joyau de ce pays et le plus grand musée au monde consacré à une seule civilisation avec un complexe de 500 000 m² (70 terrains de football). 100 000 objets exposés allant de la plus petite pièce en or à d’énormes sculptures taillées à même la roche pesant des dizaines de tonnes chacune ! Il y a même un bateau « entier » datant de 4600 ans, exposé dans un bâtiment unique ! Ce complexe est un bijou et un contraste frappant dans ce pays assez contrasté.
Travel Warnings
In major cities, expect heavy air pollution, which can be quite bothersome, especially for those with lung issues. Unless you’re extremely reckless, avoid driving a vehicle unless you’re in a peaceful resort area. Golf carts are very popular in the Hurghada coastal region 😉 In Egypt’s major cities, opt for any available transportation with a driver. You’ll have fewer gray hairs by the end of your trip!! Our trip took place right in the middle of Ramadan. If you like to have an aperitif—a drink of anything with more than 0% alcohol—well, that’s not possible… The few stores authorized to sell alcohol are closed, and restaurants don’t serve it. Generally, 5-star hotels (only) offer tourists bar service as well as in their restaurants, but not everywhere.
A Dystopian Trip!
Back home, we’ve added this adventure to our life story! While it wasn’t perfect, we had some great times together and created new memories and experiences during this trip that took a drastic turn. I honestly hope the global situation calms down and that humanity—the good kind—prevails over conflict, hatred, and intolerance. I wish you all good health, happiness in love and friendship, and a little prosperity—it always helps 😉.
Have fun, make the most of the good times, and I look forward to crossing paths with you along the way, on a trail, or in a few places just for fun!
Your friend, Martin
