Over the last two decades, I have had the opportunity to participate in and travel to many exotic destinations by motorbike. All these places have their own unique characteristics. In the following pages of this article, I will take you on a journey in words and images, on a two-part trip by motorbike accompanied by fellow bikers to this surprising and impressive South American country!
Some geographical details…
Ecuador was founded in 1534 and covers an area of 283,561 km² on the west coast of South America, bordering Colombia to the north and Peru to the south. It is a country with a population of over 18 million inhabitants, with varied landscapes and reliefs, which is endowed with a generous fauna with a phenomenal quantity of roads and paths crossing the country in all directions, going from the Pacific to altitudes of over 4000m! The capital, Quito, at an altitude of 2850 m, is nestled on the slopes of the Andes. So, at this altitude, that’s the first challenge we face as soon as we arrive.
Preparations with our hosts
A motorcycle trip is a shared passion, the search for a change of scenery while enjoying riding in a new territory. Seeing things you’ve never seen and discovering something new every day! Following the advice of our on-site experts, the two co-owners of Ecuador Freedom Bike Court Rand and Sylvain Gallea, who specialize in motorcycle tours in the country, explain that it will take two weeks to discover and explore an interesting part of this part of the world by motorbike, to fraternize with the population and to enjoy the gastronomy!
Our local correspondents explain that choosing adventure bikes such as the BMW GS or Triumph Tiger, to name but a few, goes with the type of roads we are going to drive on. We are going to leave the asphalt many times and even ride along the Pacific coast by the sea! One of the objectives of the trip is to reach the most impressive and typical points, to climb to high altitudes and reach exceptional viewpoints, and to give ourselves a thrill on the handlebars of our motorbikes.
Guided packages options
Two types of packages are available: the self-guided trip, where we set off independently on a motorcycle with the precise itineraries provided and equipped with a GPS with all the points of interest on the circuit, with the nights reserved and suggestions for restaurants. One of the advantages is being able to ride at our own speed and spend more or less time at certain points of interest. The second option is the guided package, where we have a motorcycle guide who opens and a 4×4 that closes the group. The benefits are obviously that you don’t miss anything with the respect of a circuit planned down to the last detail. Having the guide in front gives us extra safety by being first in the line. The 4×4 at the back means we can bring extra luggage, which is almost impossible to bring in suitcases when you’re on a motorcycle. If something breaks, they have parts and equipment to do mechanical work directly on site.
The roads are exhilarating with a mixture of asphalt, dry gravel, farm roads and paths, as well as large pebbles like on the Pan-American Highway built about 500 years ago! This allows us to pass through very typical hidden places, it’s a bit bumpy, but we have the right motorbikes for that! When we arrive at the Ecuador Freedom headquarters, we are given a briefing on local customs, the highway code, driving signals and driver courtesy. Having a guide at the front who opens the way and one at the back of the group ensures that our driving days go smoothly and without hassle.
We’re ready to go!
Arriving in the capital takes its toll on our bodies with its altitude and the buzz of a few million inhabitants. So, after visiting a few points of interest, we are very happy to be able to leave the city and head for the west of the country, towards the Pacific coast. After a stop at the center of the Earth (yes, yes, latitude 00 00′ 00”!), we drove down in altitude to reach our first rather unique establishment where we all jumped into the waterfall, followed by a good comforting local meal. In less than 48 hours, we reach sea level and we breathe better, we reach temperatures close to 30° in the sun; with the heat and the palm trees, we are really “in the south”!
In any motorcycle trip, accommodation is super important. At times, we have short days or long days of riding with more or less mileage and activities. So, when evening comes, comfort is essential. However, Ecuador is not like North America or Europe with almost unlimited accommodation options. The Ecuador Freedom gang has been working on their circuits and points of interest since 2009. Over the years, they have built relationships with locals, tested establishments and found little gems that they introduce us to throughout our trip.
Discovering local industries
On a typical day, we travel an average of 250 km. A mix of 90% asphalt and the rest in a happy mix of everything! On a day like this, we always discover one or two interesting things, like tasting pineapples freshly picked in front of us on a plantation. The road there is a blast, and the taste of the sweet, juicy fruit is indescribable, a real treat! Also, the workers there are so friendly and very accommodating with us.
At one point, there is a roadblock on the road… A convoy of bananas! It’s incredible to see where these bananas start out before ending up in our markets in Quebec…
Riding along the Pacific coast
When we reach the Pacific, we enter Pedernales, a small fishing town, and we will stay there for 2 days in a small private hotel. The seaside spot is fantastic and very intimate. The food, the comfort, the massages, the motorcycle parking, everything is perfect! What’s more, one of the highlights for me in Ecuador was being able to ride, literally having a blast on the beach at this specific spot a few times. Those moments alone were worth the trip, a real treat!
The following days we discover a little of the relatively wild coastline with few buildings and no urbanized areas. We do a “Zipline” stage for those with a strong heart as well as an adventure that will take us abseiling in a cave and down a water tunnel in a mountain more than half a kilometer long!
Return to the Andes Mountains
Before climbing back up into the mountains, we visit one of the country’s 200 cocoa farms, a huge economic driver for the country. We also stop at a modest school to give the children goods such as school supplies and balls that we brought back from Quebec. This is a global initiative called “Pack for a Purpose”, which encourages people, when they travel, to bring something extra for children in remote and isolated areas.
To complement the non-motorized activities, we all get wet for half a day of rafting (cat 5) at times… Super interactive, even a little crazy! Intense moments in a group, fun that really makes you appreciate what’s next, which is the end of the day on a motorbike ride that we’re much better at. Now, let’s head for the heights!
We will pass through vast plantations of chocolate and groves of palm trees in the morning light. The formidable Andes mountain range begins to rise above us as we enter the foothills and begin to climb, passing through the clouds and then rising above them. We discover several spectacular waterfalls along this road.
The air cools and after a series of hairpin bends, the views are breathtaking throughout this ascent. We stop at the crater lake of Quilotoa to admire its strange blue-green color. This coloration is due to the minerals left by a catastrophic volcanic eruption only 800 years ago. We progress towards the slopes of the Chimborazo volcano, which is the highest point in Ecuador at 6263 m. The Chimborazo Lodge, at an altitude of 4100m, will be our evening pit stop and is the highest of the trip. A timeless place with a way of life similar to that of over 100 years ago and memories of life forever embedded in us.
Our route around Chimborazo takes us through the national wildlife refuge in this area at an altitude of around 4,500 meters. The views are breathtaking, but also a good challenge for the body…
Finally, our last days of riding take us back down to the town of Baños, one of the world’s best adventure capitals! A stay at the Posada del Arte inn awaits us with a few meals in the town’s fantastic restaurants. We take the time to explore locally in various ways and simply take a breather, as it has been quite an adventure since our arrival two weeks ago!
The conclusion of a wonderful trip
Our ascent to the capital, Quito, takes us to an altitude of over 4000 meters. We descend into the valley along a narrow road. We follow another series of narrow roads, some of the most winding in the world, which give us one last thrill before finishing the circuit at Ecuador Freedom headquarters in Quito. All delighted, full of new memories and new friendships!
I would have so many more details to share about this motorcycle trip! I believe that you have to experience these moments, plan them and prepare them well. They are important, intense and very enjoyable moments in life. Discovery, encounters, sharing, I strongly recommend it to all you motorcycle adventure enthusiasts!
See you soon for the next trip, your friend to all,
Martin
