Mid-April. Winter drags on in Quebec… While we’re not quite sure what to do here, with winter sports over and the warm weather slow to arrive, why not explore the beautiful roads of Southern France by motorcycle? That’s what I’ve been doing for several years now, accompanying motorcyclists from Quebec. I love this time of year for riding in Provence! It shortens the winter and extends our motorcycle season!
So I’ve just spent a month riding on the most beautiful roads in France. In Provence, the sun shines about 300 days a year! When I arrived in Marseille on April 12, I was greeted by two beautiful sunny days with temperatures reaching 30 degrees Celsius—exceptionally warm, yes. This was followed by three weeks of cooler weather, even cold at times, with the mercury unable to settle on a consistent temperature! Indeed, the weather this spring has been a bit chaotic. When talking to the locals, they confirmed that they had never seen such mood swings from Mother Nature at this time of year!
Arrival and preparations in Marseille
But what could be better than a motorcycle adventure in a magnificent environment, on exceptional roads?
It was upon arriving in Marseille that I discovered and visited the new Road2Luxe premises! Just wow! Spacious, ergonomic, practical, with a small integrated shop—there’s plenty to be proud of! I take possession of a BMW 1250 GS, which will be my companion for the week. Today it’s sunny and warm, it’s mid-April, and everything is in bloom here! Let’s go, YAHOO!!
I pick up the riders at the hotel, and they take possession of their bikes. We’re ready for adventure! We take a short trip to the beach to get used to the bikes and breathe in the sea air, then head back to the hotel with a stop at the Arles amphitheater. There’s no doubt about it, we’re riding through history, where Roman and medieval architecture stand side by side! We cross the vineyards of Costières-de-Nîmes, where the vine leaves are timidly unfurling in the sun.
Departure for the Camargue
The next day, the Camargue awaits us with its bulls, white horses, and pink flamingos. Once in Méjanes, I bump into my French friend Lionel, whom I accompanied in my “Colorado 2022” group! Crazy, huh? What a small world!
We hop on our motorcycles and head to the pretty little gypsy town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer for lunch. The road is smooth and quiet, and it’s a day of acclimatization for the participants, who are getting to know their motorcycles while familiarizing themselves with how to drive in France. The fortified town of Aigues-Mortes then welcomes us with open arms and the participants stroll inside the ramparts: MAGICAL!
The roads of the Alpilles are winding but delightful.
The next morning, we hop on our motorcycles and head for Les Baux-de-Provence. This magnificent medieval town charms visitors with its beauty and unique character. An inspiration for many painters, it feels like stepping back into the Middle Ages.
The winding roads of the Alpilles allow us to appreciate and optimize the qualities of the motorcycles, most of which are BMWs. The fun really begins here, with small curves appearing gradually and the atypical landscape surrounding us. It smells good! More than 800 plant species are listed here!
Then the spectacular Mont Ventoux will be our next challenge, the geological beacon of the region that can be seen from everywhere around! Popular with cyclists, the road leading to the summit is very impressive! From a distance, the peak appears to be snow-capped, but it is actually a pile of rocks (although there was a little snow on the north side)… Exceptional winds and cold temperatures are forecast at the summit. Some members of the group are determined to go to the top despite my warnings. While a few stay at Chalet Raynard for the final climb, I accompany the intrepid ones for a high-flying experience! Once at the top, I am unable to get off my motorcycle because it is so windy and cold (the photos obviously don’t do justice to the situation!). But, mission accomplished, photo in hand, everyone is safe and sound and… happy!
Next up are the dizzying Gorges de la Nesque (my favorite road in the region) where the quality of the asphalt is perfect: my iron horse wants more!
The Mistral, that cold north wind, continues to blow…
Riding through the Gorges du Verdon
The next day, we ride through some of the most beautiful villages in France, in the Luberon: Gordes, Lourmarin, Roussillon, to name but a few. I take advantage of my visit to Lourmarin to go and see Albert Camus at the cemetery! The author and philosopher of “The Stranger” rests in peace there.
We then took advantage of a beautiful sunny day to admire the famous Verdon Gorge, also known as the Grand Canyon du Verdon. A true miracle of nature, it was the “icing on the cake” of the week. The road overlooking the river is sure to impress Quebec motorcyclists! Once we reached La Palud-sur-Verdon, the climb up the Route des Crêtes awaited us. This magical loop is only open in good weather. So we admired this natural creation from the top, close to the sky…
Continuing on the road the next day, we head south to reach the Mediterranean coast. The weather warms up considerably and we reach the Mediterranean via the Col de Canadel and the Maures national forest. The blues of the sea and sky merge, cacti and palm trees add to the scenery, and then the beach hut awaits us for a delicious dinner. We settle down here on the beach, with a view of the sea, our feet in the sand: it’s magical!
What better way to end the week than on the French Riviera! After returning to Marseille, we take a little rest because we’re taking the ferry to Corsica the next day! To be continued!
When Mother Nature has mood swings…
The end of April was exceptionally cold this year in the south of France, but we have no control over that. When you choose to travel by motorcycle, you obviously have to expect to deal with the vagaries of Mother Nature…
When all that’s left to do is apply sunscreen, riding in beautiful sunny weather is obviously the ideal scenario… BUT!
When a storm appears on the horizon, when strong winds buffet us, when fog sets in, caution is called for… Temperatures can sometimes be close to freezing or, on the contrary, almost explode the thermometer! The rider’s judgment AND the right equipment become essential: heated jacket, raincoat, cooling jacket, mesh coat, lining, gloves, rain repellent spray for visors, etc.
When riding a motorcycle, you have to learn to travel “light” while preparing for the unexpected. So, a good raincoat, appropriate clothing, a good attitude, and above all, prudence!
