When it comes to discussing motorcycle routes in Europe, the Alps are undoubtedly among the most highly recommended. It’s clear that countless images of famous mountain passes are shared, whetting the appetite of riders in search of intense thrills. These endless winding roads, reserved for seasoned riders, spark the imagination and inspire dreams.
The Massif Central Plateau is waiting to be explored
But the vast, lesser-known Massif Central Plateau is well worth exploring by motorcycle! It’s actually a mountain range located in the south-central part of the country. Mountains mean winding roads—and we love that! What can you find there? Among other things: the Auvergne region with more than eighty dormant volcanoes, the Cévennes and its Tarn Gorges, and the Monts d’Ardèche Natural Park, designated a UNESCO Global Geopark!
A true favorite of mine, this region, rich in agriculture, also features vast forests, gorges, winding roads, and a unique landscape. It knows how to charm, and it’s along these quiet, winding roads that I’ll take you with me!
With my many years of experience exploring the south of France, the first day immerses me in familiar territory. After spending a night on the outskirts of the Cévennes, the adventure really kicks off the next day.
A quick coffee break in Anduze, then we continue on our way before stopping for photos along the D24 to take in the panoramic views around us. The drive is pleasant and enjoyable! Last year, I discovered a charming village: Saint-Chély-du-Tarn.
We went there to explore this simply MAGICAL place! Then, from the top of the tower at Pas-de-Soucy (I must admit that name amuses me), the viewpoint lets us appreciate the wonders of the surrounding nature and enjoy a breathtaking view of the Tarn!
The Gorges du Tarn fascinate me every time. The route takes us along this splendid and imposing canyon, stretching over 50 kilometers, featuring numerous tunnels carved directly into the mountain—all set in an extraordinary landscape.
The Impressive Millau Viaduct
After spending the night in Millau, at dawn we’ll witness the sheer scale of the famous viaduct that bears the same name. Standing 343 meters tall, this cable-stayed bridge spans the Tarn River and stretches 2,460 meters. We’ll stop below it to capture our visit in photos.
The beautiful Aubrac and Salers cows watch curiously as our motorcycles ride by! It’s worth noting that the region is home to many cattle farmers who raise cattle for meat, milk, and… cheese! You’ve surely heard of (or even tasted!) their delicious products: Cantal, Bleu d’Auvergne, Fourme d’Ambert, Saint-Nectaire…
The day is far from over! It’s noon, and we stop in Laguiole, a French town well known for its production of high-end knives. This is where we eat our first aligot with sausage (aligot is a mixture of mashed potatoes, cream, garlic, and cheese—to hell with the calories!), a local culinary specialty. To help “work off” the meal, a short walk through town lets us discover this gem of the Aubrac region.
The Imposing Garabit Viaduct
With our stomachs full, we hop on our motorcycle and continue our journey through the Auvergne countryside. The structure of the imposing Garabit Viaduct is truly impressive! Does this type of construction look familiar? It’s actually a bridge designed by a certain Gustave… EIFFEL, spanning the Truyère Gorges.
Nature is very much present here: it’s beautiful, it’s green, it’s wonderful, I LOVE IT!
What a pleasure it is to ride a motorcycle through these peaceful, contemplative surroundings. We climb the magnificent Puy Mary, then take a break at the Pas de Peyrol. Time for a few photos and a coffee at the very top of the Valley of the Volcanoes: we’re now in the Cantal Massif. Google Maps told me the road to our hotel was closed, so I’m already looking for a Plan B… Once we reach the top, I see that the road is indeed open! Phew! You have to know that there aren’t many roads leading from point A to point B in the mountains, and if there’s a roadblock, you can definitely expect some long detours…
The next morning, rain was waiting for us… I decided to take a county road instead of a winding one through the forest to get to our coffee stop.
On the way, at a roundabout – boom, bam, crash— I slip on a puddle of oil and find myself face-down on the ground. Luckily, no serious injuries (I’m well-equipped), but I’m a bit shaken up. After about thirty minutes, Marc takes the lead and I trail behind the group for the rest of the ride to the hotel… That’s the risk of riding a motorcycle, but…
I’m glad I got off easy.
I’m completely charmed by the region! The stone houses with slate roofs, the small roads, the flora and fauna, and… the town of Salers, waiting for us for our morning coffee. It’s raining hard, but we’re surrounded by magnificent scenery. We turn off our bikes’ engines to explore the cobblestone streets of this gorgeous village! In fact, it’s one of the most beautiful villages in France!
Let’s go! We continue our journey through the volcanoes toward one of the most imposing: the Puy de Dôme. But first, we’re spending the night near Clermont-Ferrand. We planned to climb the volcano the next morning, but thick fog prevented us from doing so. There’s no point in going to the summit if the view is nonexistent…
Everyone was disappointed, but we had to keep going. To make up for the missed visit to the Puy de Dôme, we stopped at the 13th-century Château de Murol.
We really enjoyed this visit and had a great time!
The weather is beautiful, and the hotel in Salzuit where we’re staying is magnificent! THE VIEW and the fine dining are just a few more reasons to love the region!
The Spectacular Ardèche Gorges
We’re now nearing the end of this magnificent trip, and what better way to wrap it up than by riding through the Ardèche Gorges on motorcycles? Once again, we’re in for mountain tunnels, somewhat dizzying roads, the Pont d’Arc, and breathtaking landscapes…
Next stop: the Pont du Gard, that Roman architectural masterpiece with its three tiers of arches. Still in exceptional condition, it looks as good as new, despite being 2,000 years old! It’s also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site!
We wrap up this wonderful motorcycle adventure with a quick stop at the famous Avignon Bridge (officially known as the Saint-Bénézet Bridge) followed by a meal at the Abbaye du Frigolet.
This motorcycle trip through the heart of the Massif Central amazes me every time; Auvergne has definitely won me over, and I’ll be back again next year!
Traveling by motorcycle is MAGICAL!
