Text by Zabel Bourbeau, taken from the Ulysse guide L’Ontario à Moto.
Ontario is brimming with paradise, and the Bruce Peninsula is at the top of the list: sandy beaches, Lake Huron on one side and Georgian Bay on the other, magnificent parks and crystal-clear waters are sure to seduce you. Plan to spend at least two days on the peninsula to get the most out of it, and swap your motorcycle for your walking shoes to experience all its delights.
Owen Sound to Little Current
- Length: 500 km
- Duration: 5 or 6 days
- Skill level: intermediate
- Note: to reach Owen Sound: from Montreal approx. 725 km, from Quebec approx. 1,000 kmà
At the northern tip of the peninsula, you’ll set sail to discover the world’s largest freshwater island (2,765 km2!): Manitoulin Island. A peaceful land dotted with hundreds of lakes, charming villages and attractive hamlets, it has everything to please motorcyclists who appreciate rural landscapes. It is also renowned for its culture and history, with a strong indigenous presence. The island is home to Outaouais, Pottawatomi and Ojibwe communities, and many of its villages and lakes take their names from First Nations languages. Take your time to explore, talk to the people and savour the moments you’ll spend in this little corner of paradise.
Begin your stay on the Bruce Peninsula in Owen Sound, where you’ll take Route 1 north (1). At Hogg, turn right onto Presqu’ile Road (2). At the stop sign, take the right-hand lane to continue on Presqu’ile Road. This will bring you closer to the shore of Georgian Bay, and take you along a quiet lane before rejoining Route 1. At the stop sign, take a brief detour and turn left onto Route 1 (3) to Kemble Women’s Institute Lookout, at the southeast corner of Route 1 and Kemble Rock Road. In addition to a lookout with panoramic views of Georgian Bay, you’ll find a sculpture of a tea set and a plaque commemorating the institute’s 110 years (1897-2007).
Then retrace your steps and continue north (4) on Route 1. Stop for a picnic at the splendid Centennial Park (be careful, it’s rather poorly signposted) on the shores of Georgian Bay. Continue on Route 1. A little further on, you’ll come across Cedar Hill Park, where you can take another break by the water. Next comes Colpoy’s Lookout Conservation Area, where you can contemplate the ridges of the Niagara Escarpment rising behind you. An interpretation board explains the story of one of Georgian Bay’s greatest maritime disasters, when the steamship Jane Miller sank offshore here on November 25, 1881, with some 30 people aboard.
Take Route 1 back to Wiarton, where you can refuel and stock up on supplies. Enjoy a stroll through Bluewater Park on the water’s edge and take a photo with Wiarton Willie, a large stone sculpture of groundhog Willie!
Leave Wiarton by following Route 6 (5) south to Hepworth, then turn right onto Queen Street (Route 8) (6). You’re now on your way to Sauble Beach, nicknamed the “Daytona of the North” (cars are allowed here, and Sauble Speedway is nearby)! You’ll also want to stop off at the 11 km-long white sand beach. Don’t forget to take a picture of your motorcycle under the large Welcome to Sauble Beach sign, located in the town center, right on the beach. For a unique dining experience, stop by 1858 Caesar Bar, which offers extravagant variations on the famous Bloody Ceasar cocktail, both to drink and to eat.
Then head north along Lakeshore Boulevard (7). As this becomes a one-way street a little further on, turn right onto King Edward Avenue (8), then right again onto Sauble Falls Road (9). At the stop sign, turn left onto Sauble Falls Parkway (Route 13) (10). Stop a little further on to admire Sauble Falls, a tiered waterfall that’s very popular in hot weather. Continue on to Howdenvale and turn left onto Howdenvale Road (11), which becomes Sunset Drive and then Pike Bay Road.
Drive to the end of Pike Bay Road, turn left onto Route 6 (12) and continue to Ferndale. Tired or hungry? The Bear Tracks Inn & Restaurant can accommodate you for the night-the owners love motorcyclists! Alternatively, there’s another option at Lion’s Head.
Turn right onto Route 9 (13) and drive to Lion’s Head. Then head to the water’s edge via Bruin Street to take a photo of the breathtaking panorama. Stay overnight at the Lion’s Head Beach Motel and spend the next morning discovering the community’s attractions, including its lighthouse, pebble beach and nearby Lion’s Head Provincial Park.
Provincial Park, where you can explore the trails. Whether for breakfast or lunch, Rachel’s Restaurant is a good address here.
Now head for Tobermory, where you’ll catch the ferry to Manitoulin Island. Drive north on
Isthmus Bay Road (14) along the shore of Georgian Bay. Turn left onto Forty Hills Road (15), then left again onto Caudle Side Road (16). This brings you to Route 6 (17) , where you turn right into Tobermory. For a coffee or healthy snack, head to the TruFood Café, then relax on Singing Sands Beach and enjoy the beauty of the surrounding countryside.
The lively village of Tobermory and its attractive surroundings are well worth a day out. Take a Tobermory Wave Adventures cruise for a closer look at shipwrecks in the clear waters of Georgian Bay, or explore the superb Fathom Five National Marine Park. Here you’ll find the famous Flowerpot Island, a mass of limestone carved by the waves into an unusually shaped monolith. The clear waters of the marine park are also home to underwater caves and shipwrecks that delight divers.
In Tobermory itself, Bay Street abounds with inviting restaurants and boutiques. Enjoy a meal at the friendly
Coconut Joe’s Harbour Bar & Grill, just off the harbour, you’ll feel like you’re in the Caribbean! In the same area, the Blue Bay Motel offers immaculate rooms overlooking the marina.
The next day, sail from Tobermory to South Baymouth on Manitoulin Island aboard the Chi-Cheemaun, a 2-hour trip that feels like a short cruise, highlighting the incredible beauty of Georgian Bay and its shores (see our practical tips on this subject in the “Good to know” section). The boat has a restaurant and souvenir store. Plan on driving around 320 km on Manitoulin Island, and allow time for a few cultural, historical and gastronomic stops. Whichever route you take, you’ll be riding in peace and enjoying its natural riches. Once off the ferry, head north on Route 6 (18 ). Enter Manitowaning village by turning right onto Meredith Street (19), then left onto Arthur Street (20) to see the lighthouse built in 1885. You’re sure to enjoy a good coffee, delicious breakfast or lunch at Loco Beanz. Then follow Queen Street (21) north on Route 6. Turn left onto Bidwell Road (22) and, just over 20 km further on, take a break at Green Bay Park, on the shores of Lake Manitou.
Take Bidwell Road to the end and turn left onto Route 540 (23) at Cold Springs. You can stop a little further on to hike the Cup and Saucer Nature Preserve trail, one of the finest hiking trails in the region. The loop totals 8 km, but you’ll only have to hike about 1 km before reaching a breathtaking viewpoint. If you complete the loop, the Escarpment Biosphere Conservancy (EBC) will send you a certificate! Continue west on Route 540. At Kagawong, stop off to admire Bridal Veil Falls. One of the most beautiful waterfalls in Ontario, you’ll come across it at the entrance to this charming village, where there’s a small parking lot. As the falls are not visible from the road, you’ll have to climb down a long wooden staircase and follow the short path to the foot of the falls. From here, you can contemplate the 11 meters high cascades that have been grinding away at the limestone wall for centuries.
Turn right onto Main Street (24) and proceed to Kawagong Lighthouse. Along the way, you’ll come across the Manitoulin Chocolate Works store, where you can sample some excellent chocolates. Take a stroll along the waterfront and enjoy the scenery. Then retrace your steps and head west on Route 540. After passing Ice Lake, turn right onto Route 540B (25) to enter the village of Gore Bay, where you can spend the night at the Inn at Gore Bay. Enjoy an aperitif on the Split Rail Brewing Co. terrace, followed by a pizza at Buoy’s Eatery on the marina’s waterfront.
From Gore Bay, you could continue on to Meldrum Bay, at the western end of the island, but be aware that there are very few services here (mainly a hotel and marina) and that you’ll have to retrace your steps afterwards, as Route 540 ends in a cul-de-sac (140 km round trip). If you choose to go there, plan to refuel and stock up at Gore Bay.
Instead, head south on Route 542 (26) to spend the night in the quiet village of Providence Bay, where the Huron Sands Motel & Restaurant is a 5-minute walk from the beach. After a meal at Lake Huron Fish & Chips, stroll along the wooden walkway at the water’s edge, watching the sun sink.
Return to the mainland via Little Current, on the island’s northern outskirts. To reach it from Providence Bay, follow Route 551 (27) north along Lake Mindemoya. At M’Chigeeng, turn right onto Route 540 (28) and continue north. Before leaving the island, sip a beer at the Manitoulin Brewing Company, where you can also pick up a souvenir of your time on the island. Then check out the Little Current Lighthouse and the Swing Bridge, the swing bridge that connects the island to the mainland while still allowing boat traffic. Expect to wait a little if you’re crossing by sea.
Once over the bridge, follow Route 6 (29) to Espanola, where you can take the Trans-Canada Highway (Route 17) (30) south to Toronto, or east to Ottawa. In the latter case, take the opportunity to stop off at Sudbury’s Big Nickel, an unlikely 9 meters high replica of a nickel!
Good to know
The ferry to Manitoulin Island (www.ontarioferries.com/ms-chi-cheemaun) costs around $40 for a motorcycle and rider (around $55 if a passenger accompanies you).
However, this high price tag avoids a 700 km drive around Georgian Bay (not to mention the cost of gas and, no doubt, a night in a hotel). Discounts are available for seniors aged 65 and over, and for groups of 10 or more.
Please note: the ferry makes only two or three departures a day, and reservations are strongly recommended, especially in high season. Please note that you are responsible for securing your motorcycle to the ferry. If you don’t have any straps, the staff will provide you with some free of charge.
Always keep an eye on the opening hours and days of restaurants on Manitoulin Island so you don’t find yourself in front of a closed door.
Well-kept secrets
Route 6 to Espanola off Manitoulin Island is fantastic! Lined with rock faces, it winds its way between small lakes in an enchanting landscape. You can stop along the way at Whitefish Falls Scenic Lookout or Willisville Lookout to fill your eyes with an irresistible panorama.
Address book
1858 Caesar Bar
- 111 Lakeshore Blvd. N., Sauble Beach,
- 519-422-2227,
- www.1858.ca
Rachel’s Restaurant
- 79 Main St., Lion’s Head,
- 519-793-3982,
- www.rachels-restaurant.com
TruFood Café
- 3766 Route 6, Lion’s Head,
- 519-793-3630,
- https://trufoodcafe.ca
Coconut Joe’s Harbour Bar & Grill
- 53 Bay St., Tobermory,
- 705-539-0180,
- www.coconutjoestobermory.com
Loco Beanz
- 109 Arthur St., Manitowaning, Manitoulin Island,
- 705-859-3722
- www.facebook.com/CedarChaletCountryDinerManitowaning
Split Rail Brewing Co.
- 31 Water St., Gore Bay,
- Manitoulin Island, 705-370-8284,
- https://splitrailmanitoulin.com
Buoy’s Eatery
- 1 Purvis Dr., Gore Bay, Manitoulin Island,
- 705-282-2869,
- www.buoyseatery.com
Lake Huron Fish & Chips
- 20 McNevin St., Providence Bay,
- Manitoulin Island,
- 705-377-4500
Manitoulin Brewing Company
- 43 Manitowaning Rd., Little Current,
- Manitoulin Island,
- 705-370-5633,
- www.manitoulinbrewing.co
Manitoulin Chocolate Works
- 160 Main St., Kagawong,
- Manitoulin Island,
- 705-282-0961,
- www.manitoulinchocolate.ca
Bear Tracks Inn and Restaurant
- 2837 Route 6, Lion’s Head,
- 519-793-3555,
- https://beartracksinn.ca
Lion’s Head Beach Motel
- 1 McNeil St., Lion’s Head,
- 519-793-3155,
- www.lionsheadbeachmotel.com
Blue Bay Motel
- 32 Bay St., Tobermory,
- 519-596-2392,
- https://bluebay-motel.com
The Inn at Gore Bay
- 1 Water St., Gore Bay, Manitoulin Island,
- 705-282-3375
- www.theinnatgorebay.com
Huron Sands Motel & Restaurant
- 5216 route 551, Providence Bay,
- Manitoulin Island, 705-377-4544,
- https://huronsandsmotel.ca
Colpoy’s Lookout Conservation Area
- 502727 Grey County Road 1,
- Wiarton, 519-376-3076,
- https://ontarioconservationareas.ca/conservation-areas/colpoys-lookout
Tobermory Wave Adventures
- Dock 4, Little Tub Harbour, Bay St., Tobermory,
- 226-974-1880,
- www.tobermorywave.com
Fathom Five National Marine Park
- off Tobermory,
- 519-596-2364,
- www.pc.gc.ca/fathomfive
Cup and Saucer Nature Preserve
- route 540 south of Cold Springs,
- Manitoulin Island
- https://escarpment.ca/see-our-preserves/manitoulin-north-channel/cup-and-saucer